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A sinkapace at twilight

27 January 2023 by Simon Barnes 8 Comments

 

          More rare birds have been seen along this embankment than anywhere else in Britain. This is the East Bank at Cley in North Norfolk, a dead straight walk of about three-quarters of mile that lifts you a few feet above the marshes on either side and takes you to the sea. That day a long-billed dowitcher and a Lapland bunting had been seen from this eminence and I was taking the same walk.

But it was getting dark, the sun was hurrying down behind my left shoulder and good conditions for detailed, intelligent, accurate birding were over for the day… even had I been capable of such a thing. I walked on, the air filled with the whistling of wigeons, the cries of curlew and the heart-filling romance of the Norfolk winter.

Looking to my right as I neared the sea I could see burly waders beyond easy counting: mostly curlews and black-tailed godwits. There could have been a hundred long-billed dowitchers among them and a hundred short-billed dowitchers as well: I could make out nothing the but silhouettes of birds against orange pools that were rapidly turning silver and black. As for, Lapland or otherwise, they’d all gone to bed.

I turned back. It was very cold, the thaw hadn’t yet reached this far north, but at least the wind dropped — and in the few minutes of remaining light six marsh harriers got up to perform one last long slow aerial manoeuvre before they too went to bed: a stately  measure, one of those ultra-formal non-touching dances from a Shakespeare play: a coranto, perhaps, or a sinkapace. They circled, some low to the reeds, some higher, turned away, turned towards, turned back. These were bad conditions for good birdwatching: perfect conditions for a Bad Birdwatcher.

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Comments

  1. Ann says

    27 January 2023 at 3:38 pm

    Oh Simon your posts are so evocative of lovely walks at Cley. I can almost hear the birds myself.

    Reply
  2. Mike Kelleher says

    27 January 2023 at 4:55 pm

    Strolled around Maldon on our way back from a long weekend all-inclusive at Potters Five Lakes on Monday doing our bit of bad birdwatching.
    Came across lapwings, curlews, turnstones, avocets, oyster catchers and load of ‘no idea’s.
    Obligingly they all went quiet when I turned on the Merlin App. It came up with just the Green winged teal. So much for all-inclusive.
    We got to Wells Next the Sea in June. I went down with Covid, luckily not too bad. Lizzie my wife got it 2 days later, again minor symptoms, thankfully.
    We were staying in a static caravan, so it was easy to isolate. Cricket was on the radio, plenty of supplies.
    My son, cheeky so and so, suggested that it was probably the best holiday I ever had, not having to go anywhere meet anyone etc.
    Early evening strolls were still delightful despite the croaks. Should have turned on the Merlin App to see what it made of my sounds.
    Best wishes
    Mike

    Reply
  3. Andy (mrs) Lloyd Williams says

    27 January 2023 at 5:20 pm

    You have “painted” the picture brilliantly – I, too, was walking towards the sea!

    Reply
    • Simon Barnes says

      8 February 2023 at 2:52 pm

      Thanks for that — and pay a visit for real some time — much better!

      Reply
  4. Penny Woollams says

    27 January 2023 at 6:19 pm

    Positively captivating images, and so beautifully told.

    Reply
  5. Bairbre Uí Chathail says

    27 January 2023 at 10:09 pm

    Ah Simon, your writing is a thing of beauty x

    Reply
  6. John Adams says

    28 January 2023 at 3:51 pm

    Exquisite ! Takes straight there to the richness of the Norfolk coast

    Reply
    • Simon Barnes says

      1 February 2023 at 3:24 pm

      Thank you!

      Reply

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